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Carlo Cracco: “At the category level, we count for nothing. I will only open when I am ready “

Carlo Cracco does not care about the green light of the Municipality and the Region, he is only interested in the customer and the future of catering. For this reason he decided to do things in his own way and with his times.

First thing. Cracco does not open today, even if there is a green light.

“I don’t open, I will open when I’m ready and ready. Of course I don’t have them tell me. I’ll get ready first. I will need at least another week. I’ve made a few openings in my life. This is very hard here, much harder than I have done in the past because it’s not just having everything ready, it’s a challenge. Today as today it would be much better to stand still, waiting for it to pass, but each one faces his or her own responsibilities and choices in their own way “.

One of the most widely read and appreciated articles about Covid-19 was titled The Hammer and Dance. To think of a name for Cracco’s exit strategy, I thought of Lo Scalpello e la Danza, inspired by that of Tomas Pueyo. It will be due to the proximity to the Duomo, even more imposing and breathtaking in the deafening silence of the past weeks and so beautiful thanks to the stonemasons, that the chef of the Gallery strikes and sinks his thought, saving a few, not even himself. Without the aim of crucifying or complaining, rather than correcting and preparing what awaits the whole ward.

“Those who have improvised themselves do not have a long life, do not need a beast like Covid to shut them down. They will close the same sooner or later. If we talk about professionals we don’t have to talk about this. We are equated to any other exercise, whether it is a disco or McDonald’s. The bitter truth that emerged today is that we at the category level count for nothing. ”

Those who improvised will close, how many times have we read it these days. Cracco is already ahead and reserves the first chiseled to the department, for a widespread laziness that now makes things even more complicated, because it does not make you act quickly, because it does not allow you to make the best decisions for a restaurant that is a public exercise, but with rules, rituals, attentions, professionalism very different from all the others.

“We are trying, but it is not the easiest time to be all compact. We are in the middle of the storm now. It should serve as a lesson, to have one who speaks, a unique voice, to carry on our profession, without a useless plurality of effect phrases and proclamations “.

Talking and confronting when things collapse on you is very difficult, the concentration is all about preserving and protecting what you have. It is a human and entrepreneurial instinct.

“Several times I have spoken to my fellow chefs, but we have always run aground, because when things go more or less well, nobody complains too much. When there was no emergency, it was thought but what need is there now, everything is quite well. Instead we need to work to make the most of our department and to protect it. We cannot have the same rules that any public exercise has. As if all the professionals, notaries, engineers, lawyers, had the same rules. Absurd. Why can’t we have rules dedicated to us? If we don’t succeed, we will always have to improvise, without investing in professionalism and craft. About what really moves us, which is not making money. First of all, hospitality, quality and conviviality come. Then if you can also earn you’re good. We should lower our selfishness and bring out a team spirit that can be useful to everyone, from Sicily to Valle d’Aosta “.

The chisel returns to be felt within hours of the interview. The tennis clubs have reopened and I am taking off my mask to take the field. Cracco calls me back and asks me if I have read the protocol of the Lombardy Region. I admit I’m not on the piece, the tennis trigonometry were the only rules that crowded my mind at the time. Then he gives me the summary: “they have to defend their armchairs and therefore the responsibility for the opening they sbolognò to us saying do as you like.” Then he laughs. As if the hawk’s eye could only call him a player on the pitch. This is fair play.

Two days later I call him back, to do some nerd, and to ask him if, now the guidelines have been drawn up, he is somehow satisfied or if at least he has breathed a sigh of relief. He replies with a more mocking laugh than the previous one.

“We already meet half the protocol standards. Do you realize. Distance, online reservations, payments. There is an economy, a public refreshment service that already works, which cannot end up in the cauldron with ice cream parlors, discos and bars. But nobody asked us anything, nobody thought about it. We invest in hospitality, we are the first to set rules, to invest s


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